Boipeba’s size, scenery, warm climate, lack of cars and atmosphere make it a wonderful place for an easy (barefoot if you like) walk.
This is a description of a pleasant morning’s walk from Praia de Boca da Barra where many pousadas are, around the coast to Moreré (or further on to Bainema) and then back inland across the island to the main village of Velha Boipeba.
Start on Praia de Boca da Barra
From the far Eastern end of Praia de Boca da Barra take the pathway that leads into the woods around the headland. There’s only one path, so it shouldn’t be tricky.
Follow the path around the headland through woods down to a tiny rocky beach. Pass along the path in front of the bar and carry on through the woods.
Map image we believe is by Elias Santos. You can buy a copy on the island.
Praia de Tassimrim
This brings you out into a lovely little beach: probably the most intimate and gentle of all the beaches. In fact this is the start of a much bigger beach (Praia de Tassimrim) and just around the corner there’s a little bar/restaurant too.
Carry on for about 30-40 minutes along near-empty beaches. The water is warm and, apart from the sand being churned up, looks clear. Most of the beaches have good shade from palms at the back.
Praia de Cueira
Tassimrim is a great paddling/gentle swimming beach, as is the next one south, Praia de Cueira, which is a beautiful gently sloping beach for swimming at its north and then the shelf slopes a little more, with deeper water and bigger surf as it bends round to the south.
At the southern end of Praia Cueira is a river crossing. With the tide out, it’s a short (5m) ankle-high crossing. With the tide in you have to pick your crossing point carefully (either a little out from the river mouth in a line running between the shack and the rocks on the far side, or a short way upstream) to find a crossing that’s chest high in water with a bit of a tidal current. At high tide you’ll be wading chest-high through moving water, so check on tide times or be prepared to swim a short way.
Praia do Moreré
Crossing made, follow the path (ahead to the right) cutting through some palms and took the left turn requested by the sign.
That brings you out onto the beginning of a long and nearly-deserted beach (Praia do Moreré).
After about 1km and around 2 bends, you’ll find Restaurante Paradiso in a lovely spot where you may feel like stopping for a beer and some lunch.
Another 15 minutes along Praia do Moreré you’ll find Moreré village. It’s preceded by a small row of bars/restaurants on the beach.
Just carry on around the rocks and there’s a very pretty bay, with a village, a low-tide football pitch, and a couple of decent looking restaurants.
Further round the bay there are mangroves and around the headland is Praia do Bainema, which many say is the best beach on the island.
Inland back to Velha Boipeba
You can head up through the village on the main road/track back to Velha Boipeba. You can’t miss the track – it’s the wide sandy track right in the middle of the village heading directly away from the sea.
Shortly out of the village it climbs up a steep hill (about 50m) with the sand lined with coconut husks to help the tractor make it up/down. The entire road is made of soft sand so you can walk it entirely barefoot.
The road is the main thoroughfare across the island and is, by Boipeba standards, busy. In an hour you might pass about 20 people, a handful of horse-riders, a couple of tractors and a couple of donkeys. If it’s busy.
The scenery isn’t dramatic, but it’s a pleasant winding, mostly downhill track for about 5-6km. The surroundings are reminiscent of Cape _fynbos_ with the dry sandy soil and the scrubby but pretty plants.
From higher up you can see the woodlands to the south and north-east.
The village of Velha Boipeba is quite a sprawl with lots of junctions to play left-or-right at. Basically bear downhill and to the right. If you find the school, head down the path to its right and cross the little bridge. The village itself is a little shabby but friendly.
At the river-front head right towards the beach.
There are more options for lunch overlooking the river mouth on the Praia de Boca da Barra. We can recommend Brilho do Sol which has a nice leafy canopy towards the back and does a very good grilled mixed fish (peixe grelhado) for about R$35.
From there it’s a 10 minute walk back along the beach to where you started.